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Wonderful vistas abound. Villages tacked to the side of mountains like.... well - villages tacked to the side of mountains. Wizzened and leathery Spaniards bent double, scurrying up slopes like rats up a drain pipe. The unmistakable smell of worried livestock. Terrified tourists negotiating mountain passes with eyes as big as saucers and white knuckles their newly rented cars already bearing the scars of miss judged corners and shunted donkey's.... Welcome to Espania!